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Added 12:05 22
March 2011: John Larkin's personal summary. RIGHT NOW:
There is no
definitive citable paper available yet that clarifies the problem of
ethanol in petrol for old vehicles. What seems to be clear is that
5% ethanol in petrol has not proven to be a significant issue in old
cars that are used regularly. The problems so far encountered
seem to be related to long periods of non-use where the ethanol
separates from the petrol and absorbs water resulting in a corrosive
mix lying at the bottom of the fuel tank often resulting in tank
perforation and fuel leaks --- a serious fire risk. Starting up such
vehicles can be problematical. It seems that petrol with 10%
or higher ethanol leads additionally to degradation of elastomer/rubber fuel
lines (Ford and VW had huge problems with this in Brazil some
decades ago). Marine and aircraft manufacturers generally
advise against ANY ethanol being used in their craft. There
seems to be a body of evidence growing that ethanol corrodes zinc,
brass, copper, aluminium and lead in addition to denaturing
elastomer/rubber
components. Ethanol vents off at altitude and can cause icing
in carburettors. In April 2008 the German environmental minister
cancelled a proposed 10% ethanol fuel scheme citing technical
problems for older cars. The majority
of cars produced before 2000/2004 is not E10 compatible.
THE FUTURE: 5% ethanol in petrol (common now
in Ireland) has not YET proven
to be a major issue in older vehicles that are used regularly.
The German government considers 10% ethanol mix to be unsafe for
older vehicles, and so
have continued to permit petrol sales with much lower ethanol
levels. The conservative position for old vehicles seems to be that
ethanol is unsafe at levels over 5%. There is a high probability that ethanol
will reach 10% in petrol after 2013, although 5% ethanol may be
simultaneously available alongside it for a time.
It seems certain that the minimum level of ethanol in petrol
will be 10% from 2020, and that the actual level may be as high as
20%. It is clear that many old vehicles will need to have fuel
system components changed to materials that are not affected by
ethanol. Carburettors may need re-jetting, and adjustments may
be required to ignition timing.
You can measure the amount of ethanol in your
petrol like this:-
On a tallish clear glass bottle make a permanent line about two
inches from the bottom. Fill with water to this line, then
fill the bottle to the top with petrol. Put the lid back on
tightly and shake the bottle well. Leave it to stand
until it settles fully.
Ethanol mixes with water and the two will separate out together as a
single liquid phase at the bottom of the bottle. If the level
of this mixture is higher than the mark to which you filled the
water then the fuel contains ethanol. Super Grade petrol from
Texaco/Chevron contains no ethanol, and this may be the case for
other suppliers also.
Remember, ethanol as a fuel is of lower efficiency than petrol, and there is
evidence that its use may be more polluting than the the petrol it
replaces.
Last modified 18:42 27 April 2011 by JL. |
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Added 13:37 22 March 2011
The following was sourced
from the website of the Irish Aviation
Authority at 13:34 on 22 March 2011:
http://www.iaa.ie/index.jsp?&1n=93&2n=139&p=141&n=185&a=493
7. Adverse
effects of using MOGAS containing
alcohol
7.1 - The probability of
vapour lock increases when ethanol is
mixed with fuel.
7.2 - Ethanol is
hygroscopic in nature and therefore it
will mix with water. This can be in
the form of water vapour from air or
condensation from inside tanks or free
water. Very small amounts of water can
be absorbed without significantly
affecting combustion, at higher levels
the mixture will not be combustible. In
addition, because this incombustible
fuel is formed from a mixture of the
ethanol in the fuel and the water it can
have a large volume - so a small amount
of water will result in a much larger
amount of incombustible ethanol/water
mix. This can lead to false readings in
the fuel tank sumps or exceed the volume
of the sump altogether.
7.3 - Ethanol is an
Octane booster and can be absorbed by
water. The mixing of fuel and water can
effectively wash the ethanol out of the
fuel resulting in a significant
reduction to the remaining fuel's Octane
rating.
7.4 - An engine will use
more fuel as the percentage of added
alcohol increases. An approximate
figure is that the engine must burn 3%
more fuel to give the same power output
if the fuel contains 10% ethanol.
7.5 - Ethanol mixed with
water is somewhat corrosive and may
attack parts of the fuel system. In
long-term storage, Ethanol may oxidise
with exposure to air. This process
produces a mild acid solution which can
attack fuel system fittings.
7.6 - Long term exposure
to ethanol damages some types of
plastics (elastomers), therefore items
such as flexible fuel lines are subject
to increased deterioration. Some of the
elastomers used in old aircraft models
and which are otherwise compatible with
Avgas may deteriorate on contact with
ethanol.
8. Carburettor
Icing: Carburettor icing is
more likely when using MOGAS because it
has a higher volatility (and possibly a
higher water content) than AVGAS. |
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This article is
reprinted courtesy of Zach Merrill of the FOOTHILLS BRITISH CAR
CLUB (http://www.fbccsc.org/)
and is dated February 2010
Living with a Tipsy
Classic
Or
Your LBC and Ethanol
In my
youth, my father ran a wrecker service. As a result of my exposure
to that sometimes-dreadful business, witnessing other people's
hard-learned lessons convinced me that mixing alcohol and
automobiles can lead to unfortunate consequences. That truism has
never been more true than it is today. Until recently, it was only
the operator who sometimes disastrously opted to imbibe. These days,
our legislative officials have seen fit to force alcohol on our
machinery as well.
It is very
difficult to avoid being forced to be a consumer of 10% ethanol
mixed with 90% gasoline. In ordinary operation in a modern vehicle,
other than a slight degradation in fuel economy, the evil brew
yields little to complain about. In vintage vehicles, small engines,
and marine craft, however, it can be another matter entirely. Modern
fuel injected vehicles with high-pressure fuel systems and
feedback-loop fuel management can generally burn 10% ethanol and be
content. The fuel system samples the O2 output in the exhaust,
richens the mixture a sniff and goes on about its day. Use 10%
“ethanol enhanced“ gasoline (hereafter referred to as E10) in a
carbureted engine with no O2 feedback, and the scenario likely won't
play out quite as well. Toss in the additional issue of an
atmospherically-ventilated fuel system combined with infrequent use,
and you have the making of a very unhappy experience. Even in the
best of circumstances, a vintage carbureted engine running on E10 is
compromised. If the fuel/air mixture had been optimized for
gasoline, it will be a sniff lean on E10. True enough, the mixture
can be recalibrated if someone knows how to do it and then actually
follows through. Expect to lose about 7%(ish) fuel economy though
and expect the engine to have some issues with hot weather
driveability, but it will generally run more or less OK.
There are some
real potential issues with attack of rubber polymers and there is a
risk of crud being dislodged and causing clogging. Still, most old
cars sorta-almost-nearly run OK most of the time on E10 if the
engine is operated regularly and the fuel is not allowed to age more
than a few weeks. Aging a really bad thing. I am reminded with each
look in the mirror, but even I age well compared to E10.
Ethanol has a
major affinity for moisture. Store E10 in a modern vehicle with a
sealed (not atmospherically vented) fuel system, and it still only
stays fresh about 12 weeks. Put E10 in your vintage classic with its
vented fuel system, and within a mere month, the fuel is no longer
fresh. Leave the fuel in the tank just a few months, and you are
facing disaster. The alcohol absorbs moisture from the air. The fuel
experiences phase change. The moisture laden alcohol separates from
the gas and settles to the bottom. It becomes highly corrosive. As
if that were not bad enough, the remaining gasoline has very poor
octane and the whole miserable concoction has a terrible tendency
toward oxidation. Good old-fashioned red Sta-bil helps retard the
oxidation, but it does not help with the moisture absorption and the
phase change issue. For emphasis, let me remind you this moisture
absorption happens because the alcohol sucks the moisture right out
of the air and this condition occurs readily if the fuel is
contained in a vented tank and/or fuel bowl (as is the case with
vintage cars, boats built prior to 1977, and most small engines.)
Until recently, I did not know of any off-the-shelf product that
solves the problem. Today, however, I discovered “Sta-bil Marine
Formula” for ethanol fuels. Finally, there is hope! I spoke with a
chemist at the company. I have been assured that if “Sta-bil Marine
Formula” is added properly to E10, the fuel will remain fresh for 12
months. The chemistry in the blue Sta-bil (not the red Sta-bil)
addresses both the oxidation issue and the moisture
absorption issue. The red stuff still works fine if the fuel is
stored in a sealed container...but such is not the case in the fuel
tank of most vintage cars. Be aware and be happy that there is now a
solution....but do nothing, and prepare to be sad.
Zach Merrill
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