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February
2007
Does anybody know if this problem applies in Europe?
This is a long article but it is well worth reading. The
implications are worrying.
OIL IS KILLING OUR
CARS!!!!!
By: Keith Ansell,
Foreign Parts Positively, Inc. (Thanks to
Keith for permission to reproduce this article.)
About a year ago I read
about the reduction of zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate (ZDDP) in
the oils supplied with API approval that could affect sliding
and high pressure (EP) friction in our cars. The reduction of
these chemicals in supplied oils was based on the fact that
phosphates reduce the effectiveness and eventually damage
catalytic converters and introduce minute amounts of pollutants
into our atmosphere.
A couple of months ago I
had a member of the Columbia Gorge MG Club bring a totally
failed camshaft and lifters back to me that had only 900 miles
on them!! I immediately contacted the camshaft re-grinder (Delta
Cam) and asked how this could happen. They were well aware of
this problem as they were starting to have many failures of this
type. In the past, the lack of a molybdenum disulfide camshaft
assembly lubricant, at assembly, was about the only thing that
could create this type of problem. My customer has assembled
many engines and had lubricated the camshaft properly. Then the
bad news came out: It’s today’s “modern” API (American Petroleum
Industry) approved oils that are killing our engines: Meaning
all flat tappet (cam follower) equipped engines, as used in all
BMC products, all British Leyland products, most pushrod engines
prior to 1980, early Volvos, American high-performance engines
and many others.
Next call: To a major
camshaft supplier, both stock and performance (Crane). They now
have an additive for whatever oil you are using during break-in
so that the camshaft and lifters won’t fail in an unreasonably
short period of time. They also suggest using a diesel rated oil
on flat tappet engines.
Next call: To a racing
oil manufacturer that we use for the race cars (Red Line Oil).
Their response: “We are well aware of the problem and we still
use the correct amounts of those additives in our products”.
They continued to tell me they are not producing API approved
oils so they don’t have to test and comply. Their oils were NOT
the “new, improved and approved” ones that destroy flat tappet
engines! “We just build the best lubricants possible”. Sounds
stupid, doesn’t it, New-Approved but inferior products, but it
seems to be true for our cars.
To top this off: Our
representative from a major supplier of performance and street
engine parts (EPWI) stopped by to “warn us” of the problem of
the NEW oils on flat tappet engines. This was a call that the
representative was making only because of this problem to warn
their engine builders! “The reduction of the zinc, manganese and
phosphates are causing very early destruction of cams and
followers”. They are recommending that, for now at least, there
must be a proper oil additive put in the first oil used on new
engines, beyond the liberal use of molydisulfide assembly lube.
They have been told that the first oil needs the additive but
remain skeptical that the first oil is all that is necessary.
Their suggestion: Use diesel rated oils such as Delo or Rotella
that are usually available at auto stores and gas stations.
This problem is BIG!
American Engine Rebuilder's Association (AERA) Bulletin #TB2333
directly addresses this problem. I had a short discussion with
their engineer and he agreed with all that I had been finding.
Next phone call was to a
retired engineer from Clevite, a major bearing and component
manufacturer. First surprise was that he restored older British
Motor bikes. The second surprise was that he was “VERY” aware of
this problem because many of the old bikes had rectangular
tappets that couldn’t rotate and are having a very large problem
with the new oils. He has written an article for the British
Bike community that verify all the “bad news” we have been
finding.
Comp Cams put out “#225
Tech Bulletin: Flat Tappet Camshafts”. They have both an
assembly lube and an oil additive. The telling sentence in the
bulletin was “While this additive was originally developed
specifically for break-in protection, subsequent testing has
proven the durability benefits of its long term use. This
special blend of additives promotes proper break-in and protects
against premature cam and lifter failure by replacing some of
the beneficial ingredients that the oil companies have been
required to remove from the “off-the–shelf oil”.
Next question: Now what
do we do?
From the camshaft
re-grinders (DeltaCam) “Use oils rated for diesel use”, Delo
(Standard Oil product) was named. About the same price as other
quality petroleum based oils. They have the ZDDP we need in
weights we are familiar with.
From one camshaft
manufacturer (Crane): “use our additive” for the first 500
miles.
From General Motors
(Chevrolet): add EOS, their oil fortifier, to your oil, it’s
only an 8-ounce can (This problem seems to be something GM has
known about for some time!). The additive says for break-in
only, some dealers add it to every oil change.
From Redline Oil: Use
our street formulated synthetics. They have what we need! Early
in 2007 they will be supplying a “break-in oil” specifically for
our cars.
From Castrol: We are
beginning to see a pattern emerging on older cars. It may be
advantageous to use a non-approved lubricant, such as oils that
are Diesel rated, 4 Cycle Motorcycle oils and other specified
diesel oils. They will be supplying “new oils” specifically for
our cars in early 2007.
For you science buffs:
ZDDP is a single polar molecule that is attracted to Iron based
metals. The one polar end tends to “Stand” the molecule up on
the metal surface that it is bonded to by heat and friction.
This forms a sacrificial layer to protect the base metals of the
cam and tappet from contacting each other. Only at very high
pressures on a flat tappet cam is this necessary because the oil
is squeezed/wiped from the surface. This high pressure is also
present on the gudgeon pin (wrist pin) in diesel engines,
therefore the need for ZDDP in all diesel engines.
Second part of the
equation is Molybdenum disulfide (Moly). The moly bonds to the
zinc adding an additional, very slippery, sacrificial layer to
the metal. I found out that too much of the moly will create
problems; lack of this material reduces the effectiveness of the
ZDDP. The percentage, by weight is from .01 to .02%, not much,
but necessary according to the chemists.
Now there is no denying
that there is a problem, lack of ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl
DithioPhosphate) in modern oils kills at least our cams and
tappets. There seems to be no known alternative.
Our cars are a small
percentage of the total market and BIG Corporate, the American
Petroleum Institute and possibly government have made decisions
that are detrimental to our cars. This problem isn’t going away.
The trend today is to lighter weight oils to decrease drag,
which increases mileage. Most of these seem to be the “Energy
Conservation” oils that we cannot use.
Redline oil and others
are suggesting a 3,000-mile break-in for new engines! Proper
seating of rings with today’s lubricants is taking that long to
properly seal. Shifting to synthetics before that time will
just burn a lot of oil and not run as well as hoped.
The “Energy
Conservation“ trend was first led by automakers to increase
mileage numbers and secondly because the ZDDP and other
chemicals degrade the catalytic converter after extended miles,
increasing pollution. Most of us don’t have catalytic converters
and the mileage gains are not that significant.
Many oil companies may
have products that will continue to function well in our cars.
Castrol, Redline, Valvoline, Mobil, Shell, Amsoil and others
have now commented on my original article and are making
suggestions. Some companies are offering short lists of
“acceptable” oils, others just one. One company has responded
without any substantive information in a two-page “bulletin”. By
their account all their oils are superior and applicable. This
is typical of many companies.
Some oil manufacturers
are pointing to metallurgy, blaming poorly built cams and
followers. This may have some validity but the bottom line is
that there has been a big increase in failures with products
that have been on the market for many years but are now having
greatly increased failures. To me the bottom line is, if the
lubricants are working there is no contact between surfaces, it
shouldn’t matter what the materials used in the products are,
within reason.
On “modern” production
cars, stay with the manufacturers’ suggestions. For any car
produced before about 1990 the owner needs to be aware that the
factory suggested lubricant may have changed and may not be
applicable. Flat tappet, stock, performance or modified may be
affected. MGBs from 1975 to 1980 must choose to sacrifice the
cam or the catalytic converter as an example of how difficult
the decisions are becoming!
Yes, there is more!
Castrol does understand our dilemma and is actively looking into
what it can do to support our cars. We can soon expect to see
products from them with specific application to classic cars.
Red Line will be offering a “break-in” oil soon after the first
of the year. Shell’s Rotella will be good until about June or
July of 2007 with possibly nothing after that date. Delo
(Chevron) will also be questionable after the new “CJ-4”
standards come in the middle of 2007.
Now the important
information: Oils that may be correct for our cars today:
(As reported by
manufacturers by 31st December 2006, NOTE: many have
changed their recommendations over the last three months!
Castrol: Syntec 5W-40,
Syntec 20W-50, Grand Prix 4-Stroke Motorcycle oil in 10W-40 and
20W-50, TWS Motorsport 10W-60*, BMW Long Life 5W-30*
*= full synthetic, available only at BMW dealerships
Red Line: 10W-30, 10W-40
(Synthetic oils)
Valvoline: VR-1 20W-50
(Conventional oil)
Amsoil: 20W-50(TRO),
10W-40(AMO), 15W-40(AME) & 20W-50(ARO)
Mobil: Mobil 1 5W-30 and
20W-50 (Synthetic)
Chevron: Delo 400
Shell: Rotella
What we are doing at
Foreign Parts Positively has been difficult to determine but
with few options left, the following is what we are forced to
do. Some of our choices have been based on the manufacturer’s
willingness to help and specific reports. This list will change
in the next months with Castrol and Red Line adding products
just for our cars.
Break in:
Delo 400 30W (A break-in oil will be available from Redline
soon!)
Conventional oil:
Valvoline VR-1 20W-50
Synthetic: Red Line 10W-30 in newer engines,
10W-40 on older engines.
Break-in is
now 3,000 miles (using Delo 400 30W) before changing to running
oil.
Oil change
interval: 1 year or 18,000 miles with Red Line synthetic
1 year or 2,500
miles with conventional oil (Valvoline VR-1
20W-50).
Thank you to Castrol,
Redline, Christiansen Oil, Valvoline, Mobil, Shell, Standard Oil
and Amsoil for input. We’re sure this subject will continue:
Please forward any new information on this subject you may
encounter.
We have received some
very interesting material from “Mr Moly” that may be putting
molybdenum disulfide (MoS) into this discussion. It seems that
ZDDP plus MoS is the best from the oil companies’ opinion but
MoS by itself may be beneficial. Some racers swear by it. The
literature seems to support “Mr. Moly’s” position.
Update 20th
February 2007: In North America Castrol will have a "Classic"
20w-50 Syntec on the market in April for us. Meantime Red Line
Oil for synthetic and Valvoline VP-1 20w-50 for conventional
seems our only choices.
19th February 2007: In North America Castrol will have
a "Classic" 20w-50 Syntec on the market in April; meantime Red
Line Oil for synthetic and Valvoline VP-1 20w-50 for
conventional seem to be the only choices.
Keith M. Ansell, Foreign Parts
Positively, Inc.
www.ForeignPartsPositively.com
Kma4285@msn.com
360-882-3596
Castrol UK (Andy Griffin, Castrol Technical Support) said in am
email dated 21st February 2007:
We are currently looking at whether there is a need for a
specific formulation for the US market for their older
engines - in the UK we are fairly well covered by the
Classic grades ( and GTX High Mileage as a basic 15W-40
mineral ), and I have had no reports of problems here with
premature wear of older engines.
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